A Dip Around the World
story by Andy Tanphoto by Elizabeth Cunningham
At my first fondue bourguignnone party years ago, I was struck by the fondue’s similarities with the steamboat (huo guo) from home in Singapore. Fondue bourguignnone refers to cooking pieces of meat at the table in a pot of hot oil, while steamboat has diners dipping pieces of seafood or vegetables in boiling broth. Both involve communal-style dining and are messy but thoroughly enjoyable affairs. I offered to prepare the Singaporean version for our next gathering, marking the start of my journey into fondues around the world.
Fondue, from the French word fondre (to melt), was conceived in the eighth century BCE when Homer described a recipe made with flour, wine, and cheese. Now fondues are popular around the world: from the Alpine regions of Europe (cheese fondue) to France (fondue bourguignnone), from China (hotpot) to Japan (shabu shabu) in East Asia, or from Thailand (sukiyaki) to Singapore (steamboat) in Southeast Asia. While European fondues are cheese or oil-based, Asian fondues are typically prepared with clear broths and spices. For instance, the Singapore steamboat is based on a simple soybean broth, while the Japanese shabu shabu is prepared using a kelp soup stock. Despite the differences, all these varieties require cooking pieces of food in a pot of hot liquid at the dining table.
The combinations of food and dipping sauces seem limited only by our imagination. For instance, I’ve tasted fresh bread paired with cheese and wine fondue – divine. And succulent cubes of sirloin, pork, or turkey for fondue bourguignnone, dipped in steak sauce, mustard, or aioli – indulgent. Or fresh seafood and vegetables in a Singaporean steamboat, drenched with various chili and barbecue sauces – wickedly fiery. And even juicy strawberries and marshmallows with chocolate – the ultimate sin!
Most cuisines reserve their fondues for winter; for example, hotpot and steamboat are central at family reunion dinners during the lunar New Year, celebrated in January or February. However, both cheese fondue and fondue bourguignnone—traditionally eaten in winter—are now increasingly popular in the United States year-round with restaurant chains such as The Melting Pot. You can also savor Chinese hotpot off-season, at Chung King Garden in Philly’s Chinatown.
Hosting a fondue party is a fuss-free way to have a DIY meal. This winter, I hosted two steamboat parties to the delight of friends. What was truly enjoyable for us was the communal dining experience, the anticipation as everyone waited for their delicious morsels of food to be done, and the wonderful aromas. And I wasn’t stuck in the kitchen, but instead could enjoy the evening with my guests at the table. All I had to do was boil the broth and prepare the raw ingredients before the party, and my guests did all the cooking.
If you want to become a fondue host or hostess, a cheese fondue set comes in at under $60 at most online retailers. Electric fondue sets (rather than gas-heated ones) have easier maintenance and more consistent heat. Chinatown grocery stores are the best bet for getting a Chinese hotpot set. And feel free to look online or in any number of cookbooks for a fun-to-dip recipe!